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|  | Topic : Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator |  |
| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac |  |  | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 17 Jan 2014 - 04:29 Post title : Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator | | | Part 1 (of 2) - Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator
As I've said in previous posts, I think one of the biggest shortcomings (in the TBird's very short list of shortcomings) is the less than ideal night time visibility. In the front, at least you can (and I have) add the Aux/Fog light bar. In the back, though, you've really only got the brake light and the license plate visible at night. If you live in a mixture of a rural and suburban area, like I do, all routes take you through hilly wooded areas with lots of blind curves as well as through mall and highway traffic.
So, high on my list of mods was converting my stock turn signals into run/turn/stop signals to increase my visibility profile. I also wanted to add a brake light modulator that would flash the brake light a few times and then stay on every time the brakes were applied to wake up the texters.
As always when you make a lighting change on your bike, first check state vehicle codes to make sure your changes are street-legal.
To make the changes I mentioned, there are a few considerations:
(1) As we all know, our turn signals are single-filament incandescent bulbs; this doesn't lend itself to easy functional upgrades. No matter what extra functions we put in there, we're going to have to run additional wires and we're going to need to find light sources of the right colors that fit in our signal housings or replace the signals completely. Don't know about you but I like the way the TBird's lights look and are built so I want to keep them.
(2) We'll need to somehow interrupt and tap into various parts of the stock wiring harness. I avoid cutting or piercing stock wiring at all costs. The goal here is to identify the stock connectors that carry the signals we want to reroute, find mating connectors and build our own intermediate wiring harness to do what we want without butchering the stock wires. This also lets us easily revert back to stock.
(3) We need to make sure we're not exceeding the power carrying capacity of the stock wires.
So, parts first. After lots of research and some previous experience, I chose Custom Dynamics Dynamic Cluster II LED clusters. These have very bright LEDs with a ring of amber LEDs surrounding a central core of red LEDs. This is what they actually look like, contrary to what my crappy camera will turn it into later.
Separate wires control run (dim red), stop (bright red) and turn (amber); there's also a ground wire, of course. Because we're replacing the incandescent load with LEDs, we'll need a load equalizer for each side so our flash rate isn't affected; for that I went with a Signal Dynamics Dual Load Equalizer Module ($20). I normally prefer just replacing the turn signal relay with an LED-compatible relay but on my Bird (2013), the turn signal switching comes from the instrument panel circuitry; not accessible and not replaceable. Unlike just a power resistor, the Dual Load Equalizer is alarm system compatible, waterproof and handles 2 independent loads.
For the brake modulator, I chose the Signal Dynamics BackOff XP ($40). This modulator has multiple flashing modes, including hazard flashing. I'm keeping it simple and just using the simple flash-five-times-and-then-stay-on mode.
Finding the 6-pin weatherproof connectors that mate with the rear lighting harness was not easy but nothing's impossible. It's a Sumitomo HM 090 Series connector, found here, for $5.85: Link . The additional 2-pin weatherproof connector was easily found on eBay. If you don't want to change the internal turn signal connections (when replacing the stock bulb socket/reflector with the LED cluster), you'll need to acquire some crimp-type mini blade quick disconnects, another easy buy on eBay. You'll also need some small, narrow bullet connectors to terminate the run and stop wires coming from the LED clusters. They need to be narrow enough to fit through the turn signal mount in the fender along with the stock turn signal cable.
Another nit I have with my TBird is the lack of places to mount non-factory gizmos. We need a place to mount the BackOff XP and the Load Equalizer. Both devices are potted in a finned aluminum extrusion so they should be mounted in an area with some ventilation. They barely get warm in normal operation.
So first task was identifying stock connectors, tracing wires and drawing up a wiring diagram (and here it is). In the diagram, I've colored all newly added components blue (teal?); the uncolored components are stock. Adjacent rectangles with dashed connecting lines are connector male/female pairs. I color-coded my harness for easy identification and the colors I used are labeled in the diagram. There's nothing magic about the particular colors, they just need to be different.
Next up is packaging the modulator and equalizer modules, finding a suitable mounting location and building the wiring harness. The modulator and equalizer are in identical packages and come with 3M double sided tape for mounting. Since they don't generate a lot of heat and what they do generate they don't dissipate through the taped bottom, it made sense to make a Signal Dynamics sandwich; an aluminum mounting plate sandwiched between the modulator and equalizer. The aluminum plate has a drilled tab extending beyond the extrusions to allow screw attachement to the frame. You want, of course, all the wires to exit on the same side of the extrusions. The sandwich fit nicely in a space on the right side between the relay group the battery box. There's an unused and unthreaded bolt hole on the battery box that worked out perfectly with a spacer to keep the sandwich from touching anything on any side.
Now the Signal Dynamics sandwich is ready to be attached to the cable harness, magically assembled by all the little gremlins you brought home on your ride bell. Skipping the details on this part because it's boring. Just use high quality connectors and wire and use the right crimping tool. Double and triple check your wiring against the diagram; check continuity with a meter. If you really want a connection by connection account of the cable assembly, let me know; the diagram says it all.
No way around it, you have to remove the rear mudguard (or "fender" as we say in the states). You'll need to disconnect the 6-pin connector positioned next to the bank of relays under the right side cover. This is also the connector our custom wiring harness will connect into. As rear fenders go, this one's a piece of cake to remove without trauma. The next very important thing to do is protect your paint. Use blue or green painters tape (not masking tape!) over the entire surface. You don't want to remount only to find swirlies and scratches. Tape the chrome areas of the turn signals, too.
Flip the protected fender on its back and remove the turn signals and the plastic guard covering the brake light. The brake light guard needs a spline tool to remove the bolts; I thought that was strange, considering hex is used everywhere else on the bike (that I've seen, at least).
Remove the clear lens covers of the signals and the bulbs then carefully pry the reflector from the turn signal housing. The plastic reflector is just press-fit into a rubber backing which itself is press-fit into the signal housing. The turn signal wires connect to the reflector/bulb socket with mini quick disconnect blades; they're easy to pop off. You'll need mating, insulated, crimp-type connections (both genders) to connect to these wires and the additional run and stop wires on the LED clusters inside the signal housing. You'll also need a small, narrow and preferably weather-proof single pin connector (like a small bullet connector) to terminate the additional wires coming from the LED cluster that must be snaked through the signal mount in the fender for connection under the brake light guard.
Continued, next post....
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
| | Post edited by PapaSmurfMC on 17 Jan 2014 - 04:33 |
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 17 Jan 2014 - 04:29 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | | Part 2 (of 2) - Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator
The Dynamic Clusters are just a disks of LEDs with a stalk of wires coming out the back. To be fitted into the turn signal housing they need to be mounted on a backing that can itself be press-fit into the signal housing. I considered using the stock rubber backing of the reflector but there isn't enough surface area to solidly attach the cluster. I experimented with thin aluminum strap, trying to make a bracket that would fit inside the housing and between the extrusions inside the housing but also not enough surface area and not a solid enough mount. I needed something along the lines of a cork, something that the clusters could be solidly mounted on and then press-fit into the signal housing and I found the perfect solution in a home center, a rubber furniture floor protector. It was the perfect diameter, tapered to fit inside the signal housing like a plug and solid enough to mount the cluster with double-sided 3M tape. I marked the spots where the plug would contact the internal housing extrusions and cut along those paths with a hacksaw. I also notched out a small section to the side with a utility knife and drilled a hole in the center to pass the cluster wires through. It fit like it was made for it.
With an extra wire pair snaked through the signal housing and connected to the cluster with mini blade quick disconnects and the original signal wires also connected to the clusters, they press fit snugly with plenty of room for the lens cover. No adhesives required. The new wire pair terminated with bullet connectors, both the bullets and the stock connector fit through the fender mounting holes and the signals reinstalled.
The left and right side run and brake lines are joined with a Y connection under the brake light guard so they go on and off together. It's important to note that the stop signal to the clusters are not driven by the brake light modulator. If you were signalling a turn and braking at the same time, drivers behind you would have no idea what you intended if the same signal was flashing amber and red and at different rates. The turn signal stop indication is driven from the input to the modulator, not the modulated output. Only the stock center brake light is modulated. A separate 2-conductor cable runs alongside the stock cable to drive the run and stop signals of the clusters. All the weather-proof connectors are tidied up underneath the brake light guard and the guard reinstalled.
Once the fender is reinstalled, the new wiring harness is installed between the stock 6-pin connectors and the new 2-pin connector now coming from the fender plugs into its counterpart in the harness. The biggest mistake I made was making the custom wiring harness too long. I wanted to make sure there was plenty of free play when removing and reinstalling the fender. There's not a lot of room but I was able to fold up and zip tie all the extra wire. If there was too much wire, I could have just cut and spliced all the wires in place but it turned out OK.
I thought it would be easy to get a photo of the new lights but while your eyeballs have no problem with the bright new lights the digital cameras I tried had a lot of problems with blooming and the colors were off. The clusters are really bright but they don't glare and bloom like they do in the photos, below, and the camera's got the colors messed up. I even tried shooting the pics through dark sunglasses. The real-life colors look just like the pic of the cluster, above.
By taking a lot of random pics I was able to capture a cluster with the turn signal on. Thanks to the load equalizer, the flash rate is normal and the Bird has no idea it's now driving LEDs. The turn signal LEDs draw considerably less than the incandescent bulb but with the load equalizer I expect it's about the same. The run/brake LEDs aren't driven by a flasher so require no equalizer and draw insignificant current compared to a bulb of the same brightness. While I had the rear fender apart, I also replaced the license plate bulb with an LED bulb, part number WLED-NW5-CBT, $5.95 from Superbrightleds.com Link
It's much brighter than the stock bulb and draws about 30ma less current.
I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out and combined with the LED strips I've mounted under the rear fender (white) and under the tank (blue), I should be hard to miss plowing down the country roads at night.
Ride safe.
PapaSmurfMC
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
| | Post edited by PapaSmurfMC on 17 Jan 2014 - 22:06 |
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| | | Dags | | Set | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 01/11/2013 | | Posts | : | 468 | | Location | : | N.S.W, Australia |
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| | Posted : 17 Jan 2014 - 05:53 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | | Another Excellent and easy to understand write up. 
Thanks for sharing.
Have you thought about writing for those ??? For DUMMIES books ? 
| Dags
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| | | Sensiblepete | | Set | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 20/08/2011 | | Posts | : | 158 | | Location | : | Sweden |
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| | Posted : 17 Jan 2014 - 14:48 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: Dags) | | | Yes brilliant write up, thanks for sharing
Hrm might well take that as a winter project myself
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| | | BizRider | | Set | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 19/04/2013 | | Posts | : | 98 | | Location | : | Pompano Beach, Florida, United States |
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| | Posted : 17 Jan 2014 - 20:33 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: Sensiblepete) | | | Nicely done sir Thanks for sharing.
| When life throws me a curve, I lean into it...
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| | | MotorMac | | Jupiter | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 29/08/2010 | | Posts | : | 1,790 | | Location | : | Nor Cal, United States |
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| | Posted : 18 Jan 2014 - 01:44 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | | Holy cow! Dude!! Nice job, neatly solved and well done.
What Dags said +1
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| | | Bender | | Chaac | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 26/09/2010 | | Posts | : | 659 | | Location | : | Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia |
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| | Posted : 18 Jan 2014 - 01:55 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: BizRider) | | | nice job PapaSmurfMC
I want to fit these WITHOUT the brake modulator as I dont think our laws allow for them, correct me if I am wrong but I can just leave this out of your circuit, is that correct
thanks
| BENDER Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
Thunderbird 1600, Foran exhaust,cat eliminator,Twin T Bars, K and N filter, Led Headlight, Rivco driving Lights, Viking Bags,quick release sissy Bar,.Joker oil pressure Gauge met-cruise seat Dyno Tune + more
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 18 Jan 2014 - 03:58 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: Dags) | | | Dags wrote:
.....
Have you thought about writing for those ??? For DUMMIES books ?
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That's what I'm doing HERE! 
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
| | Post edited by PapaSmurfMC on 18 Jan 2014 - 04:06 |
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 18 Jan 2014 - 03:59 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: MotorMac) | | | Dags, pete, Biz, Mac: kudos appreciated. Makes it all worthwhile. 
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
| | Post edited by PapaSmurfMC on 18 Jan 2014 - 04:07 |
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 18 Jan 2014 - 04:04 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: Bender) | | |
Bender wrote:
nice job PapaSmurfMC
I want to fit these WITHOUT the brake modulator as I dont think our laws allow for them, correct me if I am wrong but I can just leave this out of your circuit, is that correct
thanks |
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Not quite. If you leave out the modulator, your stock brake light won't work.
I've redrawn the wiring diagram to eliminate the modulator; small change.
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
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| | | FTL40 | | Jupiter | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 13/10/2009 | | Posts | : | 1,122 | | Location | : | massachusetts, United States |
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| | Posted : 18 Jan 2014 - 15:23 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | | that looks really good. nice work
| 2010 tbird 1700 silver (fastest color) BC exhaust, BC airbox removal
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| | | Birdy68 | | Thor | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 16/07/2009 | | Posts | : | 3,352 | | Location | : | Bad Zurzach, Aargau, Switzerland |
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| | Posted : 19 Jan 2014 - 11:11 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | | PapaSmurfMC wrote:
I've redrawn the wiring diagram to eliminate the modulator; small change.
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It looks like a river running into a small lake with two cottages on either side - both with blue roofs.
Seriously though - VERY WELL WRITTEN.
| Birdy68
-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-
Leave the pork pies for now - get the sausage rolls while they're hot!
 -x-  -x- 
more info at Fuelly.com
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 19 Jan 2014 - 17:56 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: Birdy68) | | |
Birdy68 wrote:
It looks like a river running into a small lake with two cottages on either side - both with blue roofs.
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I was going to refer you to the Looney forum (down the hall on the left) but then you complimented me, so thanks. I'll make an effort in the future to continue to use pastoral layouts for my schematics.
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
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| | | tfhunt | | Set | | | Reg. Date | : | 19/01/2014 | | Posts | : | 11 | | Location | : | United States |
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| | Posted : 19 Jan 2014 - 18:11 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | | Wow! Nice work. A lot of work.
I too am looking for a wiring solution as I don't want to add any hardware auxillary lamps, but I'm not sure I would have the patience to complete the project outlined above.
I also see that Signal Dynamics and Kuryakyn make some modules that claim to make this conversion very simple. You mentioned the Signal Dynamics load equalizer and their flasher module, but what about their "Tri-star" module alleging to be the complete solution?
Link
I also see that Kuryakyn makes a universal wiring module.
Link
I'm a simpleton. Curious if these are a solution for me and if anyone has used them.
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 19 Jan 2014 - 19:25 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: tfhunt) | | |
tfhunt wrote:
Wow! Nice work. A lot of work.
I too am looking for a wiring solution as I don't want to add any hardware auxillary lamps, but I'm not sure I would have the patience to complete the project outlined above.
I also see that Signal Dynamics and Kuryakyn make some modules that claim to make this conversion very simple. You mentioned the Signal Dynamics load equalizer and their flasher module, but what about their "Tri-star" module alleging to be the complete solution?
Link
I also see that Kuryakyn makes a universal wiring module.
Link
I'm a simpleton. Curious if these are a solution for me and if anyone has used them.
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As long as you're willing to accept the shortcomings of those approaches, those modules would be less work since you're not running an extra wire to each turn signal. I didn't find that to be the most difficult part of the mod but I do understand the reluctance of some riders to dig that deeply into their machine. There are some of us twisted souls that actually enjoy that part.
In both cases of the TriStar and Kury modules, you need to cut into the stock wiring harness, a negative IMHO. In both cases, the load equalizer is a separate module, so no savings there. The TriStar does save you from having to run an extra wire to each signal but the drawback there, and you'll have to check your state vehicle code, is that amber is typically expected for turn signals and red for brakes and running. With a single wire, your signals can only be a single color for both turns and brakes. If your state (and any states you routinely pass through) allow it and it gives you enough of what you're looking for, than there's no reason not to go for it.
You didn't say if you wanted a brake light modulator but neither the TriStar nor the Kury module give you that.
As with most things, no pain, no gain. 
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
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| | | tfhunt | | Set | | | Reg. Date | : | 19/01/2014 | | Posts | : | 11 | | Location | : | United States |
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| | Posted : 19 Jan 2014 - 19:57 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | | Great feedback!
Thanks for the advice and sharing your work.
Any ideas on converting the front signals into running lights?
| | Post edited by tfhunt on 19 Jan 2014 - 20:31 |
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 20 Jan 2014 - 05:33 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: tfhunt) | | |
tfhunt wrote:
Great feedback!
Thanks for the advice and sharing your work.
Any ideas on converting the front signals into running lights? |
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Don't think it would be a big deal to add Custom Dynamics Dynamic Ringz in the front, same way I put the Dynamic Clusters in the back but I've got the Triumph light bar and I'm working on adding halos to the Aux lamps so I don't burn the lamps during the day. Plenty of light and visibility in the front with the light bar.
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
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| | | bondage007 | | Set | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 18/07/2011 | | Posts | : | 263 | | Location | : | Glocester, Rhode Island, United States |
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| | Posted : 22 Feb 2014 - 21:43 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | |
PapaSmurfMC wrote:
tfhunt wrote:
Great feedback!
Thanks for the advice and sharing your work.
Any ideas on converting the front signals into running lights? |
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Don't think it would be a big deal to add Custom Dynamics Dynamic Ringz in the front, same way I put the Dynamic Clusters in the back but I've got the Triumph light bar and I'm working on adding halos to the Aux lamps so I don't burn the lamps during the day. Plenty of light and visibility in the front with the light bar.
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Papa
Great work and write up on how to! I'll be adding the same LEDs to some hard bags I just installed, then turn signals.
The connector info was a huge help. I'll be able to leave OEM harness intact.
Please post results on halos if you can.
I'll be lighting up my front as well. It may include turn signal clusters, windshield trim directional/running, ( I have batwing mounted), head/aux halos or side of fairing.
Cheers
John
| 2010 Thunderbird Factory 1700, Uni Filter, Hogslayers, 7" Adjure Headlamp Lamp Upgrade
"When injustice becomes law rebellion becomes duty"
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 23 Feb 2014 - 03:28 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: bondage007) | | | Thanks for the kudos, John. As long as there's interest, I'll continue posting.
Halos almost finished today; putting them around the Aux lights. They look awesome but after 10 minutes of test time one of them failed, shorting itself out and blowing a fuse. Never had a problem with SuperBrightLEDs before but now need a replacement so the post is derailed for a week or two. 
Also found a way to wire the halos in without cutting any stock wires.  Since the rear running lights, brake running light, license light and halos were all driven from the same circuit, added a relay for the rear to back off the power burden on the stock driver. I'll be posting an updated wiring diagram and pics soon.
I considered putting Dynamic Ringz in the front signals but with the Aux lights, seemed like overkill and didn't think it would look right. The halos call attention in the front without burning the Aux bulbs during the day so I'm leaving the front signals alone for now. Really hate having to add load balancers in for signal LEDs; kind of defeats the power-saving point. Can't think of a reason for any current bike to not come with an LED-friendly signal relay and the Bird's relay isn't even replaceable. It's been a real challenge just finding places to hide the extras.
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
| | Post edited by PapaSmurfMC on 23 Feb 2014 - 03:30 |
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 24 Feb 2014 - 05:17 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | |
PapaSmurfMC wrote:
...
Halos almost finished today; putting them around the Aux lights. They look awesome but after 10 minutes of test time one of them failed, shorting itself out and blowing a fuse. Never had a problem with SuperBrightLEDs before but now need a replacement so the post is derailed for a week or two.
...
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On a hunch, I peeled back the factory heat-shrink from the SuperBrightLEDs LED strip I used to make the halo and sure enough, they had stripped the insulation back too far where they connected power to the strip. The twisting of the wire was enough to short the wires together.
Rather than go through the hastle of exchanging it, I cleaned it up, put a drop of epoxy between the two wires then put a fresh length of heat-shrink back over it. Now I have to reassemble everything and hook it back up. 
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 26 Feb 2014 - 05:10 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | | I've added a follow-up post to this thread, "Relay power for run/turn/stop signals" at Link
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
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| | | bondage007 | | Set | | | | Reg. Date | : | 18/07/2011 | | Posts | : | 263 | | Location | : | Glocester, Rhode Island, United States |
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| | Posted : 28 Mar 2014 - 00:59 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | | Hi Papa
Where did you purchase the colored wire, what gauge did you use? I ordered the 6 pin connectors to tap into harness without cutting, fast shipping good vendor!
Thanks
John
| 2010 Thunderbird Factory 1700, Uni Filter, Hogslayers, 7" Adjure Headlamp Lamp Upgrade
"When injustice becomes law rebellion becomes duty"
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 28 Mar 2014 - 05:28 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: bondage007) | | |
bondage007 wrote:
Hi Papa
Where did you purchase the colored wire, what gauge did you use? I ordered the 6 pin connectors to tap into harness without cutting, fast shipping good vendor!
Thanks
John |
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Hi John. I used 18 gauge stranded wire, assortments available on ebay. I got a 10-color assortment, 25 feet per color, for $20 shipped; here's the link: Link
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
|
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| | | bondage007 | | Set | | | | Reg. Date | : | 18/07/2011 | | Posts | : | 263 | | Location | : | Glocester, Rhode Island, United States |
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| | Posted : 29 Mar 2014 - 00:13 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | |
PapaSmurfMC wrote:
bondage007 wrote:
Hi Papa
Where did you purchase the colored wire, what gauge did you use? I ordered the 6 pin connectors to tap into harness without cutting, fast shipping good vendor!
Thanks
John |
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Hi John. I used 18 gauge stranded wire, assortments available on ebay. I got a 10-color assortment, 25 feet per color, for $20 shipped; here's the link: Link
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Papa
Thanks again, ordered this morning and they shipped today.
Now I just need to find time to install.
Cheers
John
| 2010 Thunderbird Factory 1700, Uni Filter, Hogslayers, 7" Adjure Headlamp Lamp Upgrade
"When injustice becomes law rebellion becomes duty"
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| | | bondage007 | | Set | | | | Reg. Date | : | 18/07/2011 | | Posts | : | 263 | | Location | : | Glocester, Rhode Island, United States |
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| | Posted : 05 Apr 2014 - 13:34 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: bondage007) | | | Papa
Sorry to bother again. Order of assembly on 6 pin connectors?
1. Slide boot/grommet over wire, strip wire.
2. Place blade/female connector on wire end, crimp with 6 position crimping tool (a, b,c?).
3. Slide finished end into 6 pin jack, looks like a positive stop/tab should "click when seated".
4. Seat boot/grommet.
5. Repeat over and over.
Your wiring diagram , no brake modulator. Did you draw it in Visio or AutoCad? Could you PM me a Visio version of it if possible?
I am adding the dynamic clusters to my hard bags along with running lights. Modifying existing drawing would save me a ton of time and I'll post my version when done.
Most important I'll check all connections 3 times and once with my seeing eye dog!! Oh for young eyes.....
Thank you
John
| 2010 Thunderbird Factory 1700, Uni Filter, Hogslayers, 7" Adjure Headlamp Lamp Upgrade
"When injustice becomes law rebellion becomes duty"
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 05 Apr 2014 - 20:50 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: bondage007) | | | bondage007 wrote:
Papa
Sorry to bother again. Order of assembly on 6 pin connectors?
1. Slide boot/grommet over wire, strip wire.
2. Place blade/female connector on wire end, crimp with 6 position crimping tool (a, b,c?).
3. Slide finished end into 6 pin jack, looks like a positive stop/tab should "click when seated".
4. Seat boot/grommet.
5. Repeat over and over.
Your wiring diagram , no brake modulator. Did you draw it in Visio or AutoCad? Could you PM me a Visio version of it if possible?
I am adding the dynamic clusters to my hard bags along with running lights. Modifying existing drawing would save me a ton of time and I'll post my version when done.
...
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Correct on all counts. Always a good idea to buy a few extra contacts, just in case you're on your third beer by the time you get to crimping.  Also recommend getting and using some dielectric grease; it not only protects the contacts from oxidation but makes it a lot easier to separate the connector halves if/when the time comes.
So you're adding more running lights in addition to the Dynamic Clusters (which also have a running light mode)? I'm pretty sure the running lights are on a 5A circuit (which also drives the license plate light and position light); just make sure you're not getting close to the 5A. You can replace both bulbs with LEDs to reduce draw or add a relay like I did in Link
I've added the relay to the diagram and am releasing it under a Free GNU Documentation license for non-commercial use. I'll PM you the Visio file.
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
| | Post edited by PapaSmurfMC on 05 Apr 2014 - 20:55 |
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| | | bondage007 | | Set | | | | Reg. Date | : | 18/07/2011 | | Posts | : | 263 | | Location | : | Glocester, Rhode Island, United States |
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| | Posted : 06 Apr 2014 - 00:55 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | |
PapaSmurfMC wrote:
bondage007 wrote:
Papa
Sorry to bother again. Order of assembly on 6 pin connectors?
1. Slide boot/grommet over wire, strip wire.
2. Place blade/female connector on wire end, crimp with 6 position crimping tool (a, b,c?).
3. Slide finished end into 6 pin jack, looks like a positive stop/tab should "click when seated".
4. Seat boot/grommet.
5. Repeat over and over.
Your wiring diagram , no brake modulator. Did you draw it in Visio or AutoCad? Could you PM me a Visio version of it if possible?
I am adding the dynamic clusters to my hard bags along with running lights. Modifying existing drawing would save me a ton of time and I'll post my version when done.
...
|
|
Correct on all counts. Always a good idea to buy a few extra contacts, just in case you're on your third beer by the time you get to crimping. Also recommend getting and using some dielectric grease; it not only protects the contacts from oxidation but makes it a lot easier to separate the connector halves if/when the time comes.
So you're adding more running lights in addition to the Dynamic Clusters (which also have a running light mode)? I'm pretty sure the running lights are on a 5A circuit (which also drives the license plate light and position light); just make sure you're not getting close to the 5A. You can replace both bulbs with LEDs to reduce draw or add a relay like I did in Link
I've added the relay to the diagram and am releasing it under a Free GNU Documentation license for non-commercial use. I'll PM you the Visio file.
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Papa
I may just replace stock rear turn signal bulbs with led replacements if available. This should reduce draw and visibility really doesn't matter with the added clusters on rear of bags. The running lights (on bag side )are the Custom Dynamics Knight Riders 21 led light bar.
Was even debating removing the stock turn signals and just using ones on bags. This could include a custom fender that would also fill gap between bags and fender Next year need to ride.
Watts/voltage= amperage, is that correct formula? What about milliamps?
Thanks again
John
| 2010 Thunderbird Factory 1700, Uni Filter, Hogslayers, 7" Adjure Headlamp Lamp Upgrade
"When injustice becomes law rebellion becomes duty"
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 06 Apr 2014 - 03:05 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: bondage007) | | |
bondage007 wrote:
...
I may just replace stock rear turn signal bulbs with led replacements if available. This should reduce draw and visibility really doesn't matter with the added clusters on rear of bags. The running lights (on bag side )are the Custom Dynamics Knight Riders 21 led light bar.
Was even debating removing the stock turn signals and just using ones on bags. This could include a custom fender that would also fill gap between bags and fender Next year need to ride.
Watts/voltage= amperage, is that correct formula? What about milliamps?
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If you replace your rear turn signal bulbs with LEDs, you'll want to add load equalizers to restore the flash rate and that will negate the power savings, so unless you just like the look of the LEDs better, probably just as well to leave the bulbs in.
Your equation is correct but you'll need to add up the current draw from the LEDs and bulbs, combined, and the LEDs won't be rated in watts. If you can't get the specs on the LEDs, you can always just measure the total current draw with a meter but you may have to temporarily cut the yellow wire to make the measurement and then splice it back together. Or, save yourself the concern and put in the relay to give yourself 15A of switched and fuse-protected power for your running lights and whatever else you have in mind.
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
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| | | Quinonesm | | Set | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 04/03/2014 | | Posts | : | 35 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 08 Apr 2014 - 12:34 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: PapaSmurfMC) | | | Hey Papa, I re-read the thread again in order to prep for trying this, but I have a couple of questions for you.
1. The aluminum backing plate, was that custom cut by you or did you pick that up somewhere?
2. Thanks for the link for the wire, as that was a question of mine too, since you stated good quality wire & connectors. Where can I pick up the weatherproof connectors to fit through the signal stalks and also the dielectric grease? Lowes, Home Depot, Radio Shack?
3. You mentioned having used too long a length of wire for your harness and having to wrap and zip tie it up...what length would you recommend?
4. Since I will not be using a light bar, I want to go with the Dynamic Ringz for the front. Would the dual equalizer you used cover the front signals or is an additional dual equalizer needed for the front signals?
I think that's it for now. Thanks again for a fantastic & very informative thread! Tell me you're an electrician/electrical engineer by trade
Marcus
Ps - John/bondage - could you please post up photos of your light mods when done?
| 2013 Graphite Storm
| | Post edited by Quinonesm on 08 Apr 2014 - 12:57 |
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| | | PapaSmurfMC | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 03/10/2013 | | Posts | : | 871 | | Location | : | Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States |
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| | Posted : 09 Apr 2014 - 02:52 Post title : Re: Turn signals become run/turn/stop plus brake light modulator (Re: Quinonesm) | | | Quinonesm wrote:
Hey Papa, I re-read the thread again in order to prep for trying this, but I have a couple of questions for you.
1. The aluminum backing plate, was that custom cut by you or did you pick that up somewhere?
2. Thanks for the link for the wire, as that was a question of mine too, since you stated good quality wire & connectors. Where can I pick up the weatherproof connectors to fit through the signal stalks and also the dielectric grease? Lowes, Home Depot, Radio Shack?
3. You mentioned having used too long a length of wire for your harness and having to wrap and zip tie it up...what length would you recommend?
4. Since I will not be using a light bar, I want to go with the Dynamic Ringz for the front. Would the dual equalizer you used cover the front signals or is an additional dual equalizer needed for the front signals?
I think that's it for now. Thanks again for a fantastic & very informative thread! Tell me you're an electrician/electrical engineer by trade
Marcus
Ps - John/bondage - could you please post up photos of your light mods when done? |
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Hi Q.
1. Aluminum plate was cut from scrap I had on hand.
2. Bullet connectors are 22-18g (red) heat-shrink type. Pep Boys stocks them but you'll get a much better deal on ebay, like these: Link Just an example. Before crimping on your wiring, make sure they'll pass through the hole in the fender at the base of the signal stalk. You could also use non-weather-proof mini bullet connectors (another ebay search) and heat-shrink over them once connected.
You can get dielectric grease at any auto supply store (Pep Boys or Advance Auto) or, surprisingly, at Walmart. Small tube of Permatex is about $3.
3. Never did measure the assembled cable and now it's all neatly bundled up. If I was doing it again, I'd completely build up one end of the cable, take it out to the bike and actually route the cable from where the built up end connects to the where the other end[s] are going to connect and cut to length, leaving a couple of extra inches for tying off and error.
4. I think Dynamic Ringz will be awesome in the front signals. I used them in my last bike and they looked and worked great. You will need a second dual load equalizer for the front. It'll be interesting to see where you find to mount it.
Very glad you and some others are finding this useful and entertaining and hopefully inspiring more modders to post details and help eachother out. Yes, I'm an engineer but I try to use my powers for good.
| 2013 Blue Marble Haze Thunderbird 1600 ABS
2009 Black Bonneville A1 ("Mag")
Buncha farkles
| | Post edited by PapaSmurfMC on 09 Apr 2014 - 02:56 |
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