|  | Topic : Cam Timing (How To) |  |
| | | mad_angler1 | | Chaac |  |  | | Reg. Date | : | 18/10/2009 | | Posts | : | 511 | | Location | : | United Kingdom |
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| | Posted : 07 Jan 2010 - 20:11 Post title : Cam Timing (How To) | | | Cam Chain Alignment
First make sure the engine it locked up with the crank pin through the hole behind the alternator, WARNING in the manual it states the timing pin can be inserted through the hole in the crank care and into the hole in the idler gear every 4 revolutions of the crank, for me this was WRONG on both occasions of doing it, i could only get it in every 12 or so rotations(did not count exactly), its a bit strange as it does line up more ofter however you cant get the pin in because the con rod is just in the way, i meant to ask triumph on this one but forgot, any how keep turning the crank until you can get the pin through.
Next look down the guide hole and ensure the chain is on the idler gear correctly, at this point the chain is not on any of the cams sprockets its just sitting around the shafts, next rotate the inlet cam just to the right of the timing mark, not quite one tooth is perfect, you will need a spanner to turn the cam as the its under load from opening the valves, whilst holding the cam fit the chain onto its sprocket, at this point you have the chin on the inlet cam only, whilst holding the chain on the cam turn the spanner to the front direction, you will now be pulling the chain tight from the idler gear to the inlet cam, check the cams position markings verses the ones on the cam web, you should now find the two marking line up, if they don't lift chain and adjust cam accordingly, repeat process until you are 100% there is no slack in the chain between the inlet cam and the idler gear sprocket on the crank, once you are happy rotate the exhaust cam so the marking align on the cam and web, fit cam chain over so its tight between the cams, if you have fitted the chain correctly you should have exactly 20 pins ( pins in the chain not links) between the alignment marks on each cam, see below pic, you will now have all the slack in the chain at the front.
Next reset the chain tensioner and fit and secure bolts, WARNING this thing is like a bomb ready to go off handle with care, it must not release until it has been fully bolted in as it can only extend outwards, if it released earlier and you bolted it up you would over tighten the chain, once in its now time to release it, in the manual it states to give the chain a sharp tap between the cams, we found by pushing against the chain guide that the tensioner pushed with a long screwdriver was a easier way of releasing it, by doing this you push the plunger back in a bit and the clamp holding it in drops, then when you release the screwdriver the tensioner springs out to take up the slack.
Now as long as your 100% the tensioner has released remove the timing pin and rotate the crank 4 times, by the manual you should be able to reinsert the timing pin again, i could not as we had to go around 12 or so until i could, now re check the the cam timing you should have the two timing marks on the cam at 12 o clock aligned with the marks on the cam web, if all good you are done, refit everything, if you find you are out and the marks don't line up repeat above process.
Regards
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| | | Birdy68 | | Thor | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 16/07/2009 | | Posts | : | 3,352 | | Location | : | Bad Zurzach, Aargau, Switzerland |
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| | Posted : 08 Jan 2010 - 06:59 Post title : Re: Cam Timing (How To) (Re: mad_angler1) | | | Excellent work Mad Angler. You really are a pioneer in this field!
Mods - can you move to the 'How To - Step by Step' Section?
| Birdy68
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Leave the pork pies for now - get the sausage rolls while they're hot!
 -x-  -x- 
more info at Fuelly.com
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| | | mad_angler1 | | Chaac | | | | Reg. Date | : | 18/10/2009 | | Posts | : | 511 | | Location | : | United Kingdom |
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| | Posted : 02 May 2010 - 23:24 Post title : Re: Cam Timing (How To) (Re: Birdy68) | | | i have an update to the cam timing, whilst my dealer was doing another BB install this week i decided to come up with a second method of timing the bike, the reason for this is to get to the timing pin hole you must remove the RH cover which means you loose about 1 litre of oil, then remove the Rotor, to do this you need two Triumph Tool's, you can get away with using an air gun rather than one of the tools to remove the bolt however you must have T3880200 to remove the rotor from the shaft.
this method is based on Piston one LH as you are looking from the seat being at TDC.
IMPORTANT: the cam timing marks do not align up at TDC, Triumph have set them at a slightly different point, also you need to make sure if you remove the cam chain you don't turn the crank out of sequent, there is no easy way to check wether the crank is at the top of the Intake or exhaust stroke, this must be rite or the bike will not run and be well out of balance
this method of timing is best done if you are just adjusting the timing or changing the cams with out touching the crank, before starting turn the engine over so that the cams are as stated below at the top of the exhaust stroke, then put the bike in gear, this will prevent the crank turning once you remove the chain.
ALSO VERY IMPORTANT: TDC normally reefers to a piston at the top of compression stroke, for this timing that is not the case as i could not get decent marks at that point.
When i state TDC the piston is at the top of the exhaust stroke NOT the compression stroke, as looking at the bike from the LH side (Clutch Cover towards you) at TDC the cams will rotate clockwise, at the top of the exhaust stroke the Inlet cam lobe is just right of the valve about to open it and the exhaust cam lobe is just to the left of the valve having just closed it.
Getting to TDC.
First of all if you are timing from scratch and the chain is off make sure all the valves are closed and all lobes are away from the valves.
Get the piston to TDC again, the best method is to remove one spark plug from each cylinder, then in No:1 insert down the plug hole a long screwdriver until it rests on the piston, next with the rear wheel off the ground put the bike in 1st gear and rotate the wheel until the screwdriver rises then starts to fall again go back and forth untill you get it so that the piston is at the top and either way you turn the wheel the screwdriver will fall, this will take a bit of going back and forth but you will find the sweet spot, as i said above the crank must also be at the correct TDC position of its 4 strokes, if you did as i stated above you should only need to move the piston slightly to get it at the top as you should already have it nearly there.
Timing.
As per original post you will have two marks one on the cams and one on the cam web, when you have the piston at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke (as per above) the cam timing marks should be left of the web mark with 1 tooth between the two timing marks,
Example
[IMG]
See 3 arrows on picture,
Arrow 1: Cam timing Mark below one tooth
Arrow 2: Middle tooth.
Arrow 3: Cam Web Mark below Tooth.
for the cam timing to be correct there must only be one tooth between the two marks, or as per picture one arrow. you can see arrow 1: is above the tooth with the cam shaft timing mark below it, Arrow 2 is the middle tooth and Arrow 3 is above the 3rd tooth than must be aligned with the mark on the Cam Web.
your timing with the correct when setup like this.
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| | | TF175 | | Set | | | Reg. Date | : | 15/04/2011 | | Posts | : | 2 | | Location | : | United States |
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| | Posted : 20 Apr 2011 - 21:59 Post title : Re: Cam Timing (How To) (Re: mad_angler1) | | | Mr. Angler,
After timing the cams,installing the tensioner and arming it,the 1600 I am doing still seems to have a little too much chain slack. The engine rotates fine,but the chain tries to ride up on the cam teeth. I think that when the engine is started the oil pressure into the tensioner will take up the slack,but I want to be sure as this is the first 16 I have adjusted the valves on.
Your input will be appreciated.
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| | | DrMooman | | Set | | | Reg. Date | : | 09/08/2016 | | Posts | : | 73 | | Location | : | Wales, Wales, United Kingdom |
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| | Posted : 25 Nov 2017 - 23:35 Post title : Re: Cam Timing (How To) (Re: mad_angler1) | | | You say 'spanner' where do you put the spanner on the camshaft?
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| | | Leethal | | Zeus | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 24/01/2011 | | Posts | : | 6,404 | | Location | : | Australia |
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| | Posted : 26 Nov 2017 - 07:45 Post title : Re: Cam Timing (How To) (Re: DrMooman) | | | I think on the RH side of the cam closer to the gear there is a hex section that fits a spanner, it's not always easy to get the spanner on where you need it.
| Experience is something you get just after you needed it 
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
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| | | JohnnyStorm | | Set | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/12/2018 | | Posts | : | 1 | | Location | : | United Kingdom |
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| | Posted : 12 Dec 2018 - 23:33 Post title : Re: Cam Timing (How To) (Re: mad_angler1) | | | Hi,
Is there a reason that the following procedure wouldn't work (method that avoids flywheel removal and idle gear pin lock)
Lock the flywheel by whatever means you can- I made a tool and fixed it to the footpeg mount; see image. Also mark the flywheel and engine case so your doubly sure it hasn't moved, then carry out valve adjustment as you have described. 
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| | | Leethal | | Zeus | | | | Reg. Date | : | 24/01/2011 | | Posts | : | 6,404 | | Location | : | Australia |
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| | Posted : 13 Dec 2018 - 06:14 Post title : Re: Cam Timing (How To) (Re: JohnnyStorm) | | | How would you know where your timing is? The timing pin is used so that the crank is set at the correct position in relation to the cams ( like using the old style timing marks). The cam chain has to be lifted off to remove the cams if the shims need replacing so you need to have the timing line up properly.
You can't get the timing pin in with the flywheel on.
| Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
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