|  | Topic : Change Rear Wheel Bearings |  |
| | | fab | | Thor |  |  | | Reg. Date | : | 12/10/2009 | | Posts | : | 2,515 | | Location | : | wyong, nsw, Australia |
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| | Posted : 27 Aug 2015 - 02:56 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: GerPa) | | |
GerPa wrote:
GerPa wrote:
GerPa wrote:
UPDATE
Here Ya go Gents.
Just to make things easier and the Parts Information to be readily available. I did the exercise myself this afternoon on my Mates 2009- T-Bird that has done 86000Klms . As I said previously the bearing were a little "Knotchy" but in My opinion were still OK, However for the cost involved My Neighbor wanted to change them out.
To overhaul the Rear Wheel Bearings and Seals and the Drive Belt/Cush Drive bearing you need the parts as depicted above which is for everything EXCEPT the Cush Drive Needle Roller Bearing. As most people would be aware the early models up to Vin number 454818 use Triumph Part No 2713500 which I believe is a HK3024 2RS bearing. From Vin Number 454619 They use ( told by local dealer ) Triumph Part Number T3800501 ( still trying to identify a non OEM number for the late models )
TOTAL COST excluding the Circlip Pliers ( that stop Ya Fucking Circlips ) is A$49.00
The procedure is.
1: Remove the circlip from the Disc Brake side of the Hub
2: With the aid of a socket the same size as the outer diameter of the wheel bearing you have to drive both bearing outwards a little so that you can get the internal spacer loose enough to allow you to get a drift or punch on the inside bearing race and drive the brake side bearing out from the pulley side
3: Once one bearing is our remove the bearing spacer and again getting the drift or punch on the inner race of the drive side bearing drive the bearing out from the brake side.
Both Bearing Locations have a stepped shoulder that the bearing locates against in the hub.
4: Fit new the new bearing by tapping it gently into place once again by using a socket the same size as the outer race of the bearing and refitting the circlip back in to the brake side bearing location .
5: Refit the spacer from pulley side
6: Ensuring the spacer is lined up with the center of the bearing repeat step 4 and fit pulley side bearing, push in far enough to come up tight on the spacer.
7: Refit the new seal back into the Disc Brake side on top of the circlip and lightly lubricate the seal with some multipurpose or waterproof grease..
That all that is required for changing the wheel bearings.
I reckon this would be 100% Cheaper that going to the dealers with the OEM Part Numbers. |
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Update
Ref The Cush Drive Needle Roller Bearing. As most people would be aware the early models up to Vin number 454818 use Triumph Part No 2713500 which I believe is a HK3024 2RS bearing. From Vin Number 454619 They use ( told by local dealer ) Triumph Part Number T3800501 ( still trying to identify a non OEM number for the late models )
I actually purchased the Genuine Triumph Bearing T3800501 for A$42, When It arrived on the packet it had Price inc GST A$57.  Not sure who screwed Who at this point but I only paid A$42 including Post from Team Moto Virginia in Brisbane to Mackay.
Anyway I then took the Genuine Bearing to the Local Supplier and yep,  It's a Special  The identification on the bearing are NTH Japan SS . under that is NK 26 x 35 X25 -5L699. According to the Bearing Bloke it's the 26mm internal dia is where we get screwed. He could not identify anything in this country with a 26mm internal diameter. So there Ya go lads the answer is obvious. you can go NON OEM for all the bearing and seals in the Read Wheel including the Cush Drive as depicted in the sales docket above. EXCEPT for the Cush Drive Needle Roller Bearing. So them Pommie Engineers got us after all.  
p.s. The Bearing Bloke also indicated that a comparable NON OEM bearing of about that size would be around the A$32.00 mark. |
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in that case it would be nearly cheaper to buy a new cush drive instead of replacing the needle bearing
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Remember, soft cocks hang around all life long, hard ones come and go
ahh f**k im deep
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| | | GerPa | | Jupiter | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 10/12/2011 | | Posts | : | 1,919 | | Location | : | Mackay, Central Queensland, Australia |
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| | Posted : 27 Aug 2015 - 03:38 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: fab) | | | Jamie.
A new Cush Dive including Bearing and Seals for between (Depending on how much you pay for the Genuine bearing) for $57 and $72. Dont think so.
|  May-2011-1600, 20306 Tune, Mustang Vintage Solo Seat, Meerkat Cat Bypass, + Meerkat Modified Short TORS   ,K&N Air Cleaner,K&N Oil Filter, JBQ lifting system, Gold Plug Magnetic Sump Plug,Dart Fly screen, Rivco Risers, GiPro Gear Indicator, Breakaway Cruise Control, Avon ISO Grips, Scorpion Western Low Handlebars, Kury Switchblade Pegs, Garmin Zumo390LM,Michelin RC2 on Front RC 3 on ,Modified Rear Drive Pulley Hub Bearings (Mat1600/Alex4 Modification) Front Susp: Std & 7.5W Oil /126mm Air Gap & Rear:Hagon Nitro's with 26Kg/cm Springs + Lots of other "Bling" stuff.
| | Post edited by GerPa on 27 Aug 2015 - 03:39 |
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| | | fab | | Thor | | | | Reg. Date | : | 12/10/2009 | | Posts | : | 2,515 | | Location | : | wyong, nsw, Australia |
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| | Posted : 27 Aug 2015 - 05:08 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: GerPa) | | | GerPa wrote:
Jamie.
A new Cush Dive including Bearing and Seals for between (Depending on how much you pay for the Genuine bearing) for $57 and $72. Dont think so. |
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yes, but that comes with the other two bearings and seal, so I think so
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Remember, soft cocks hang around all life long, hard ones come and go
ahh f**k im deep
| | Post edited by fab on 27 Aug 2015 - 05:08 |
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| | | MotorMac | | Jupiter | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 29/08/2010 | | Posts | : | 1,869 | | Location | : | Nor Cal, United States |
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| | Posted : 27 Aug 2015 - 13:07 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: GerPa) | | | Timken 205FF fits later hub.
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| | | GerPa | | Jupiter | | | | Reg. Date | : | 10/12/2011 | | Posts | : | 1,919 | | Location | : | Mackay, Central Queensland, Australia |
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| | Posted : 27 Aug 2015 - 20:17 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: MotorMac) | | | MotorMac wrote:
Timken 205FF fits later hub. |
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Michael
This is the Triumph T3800501 Needle Roller bearing.
The ONLY bearing I cant find a substitute for . All other NON OEM replacement bearings can be sourced and are depicted on the invoice above.
The bearing you are saying is depicted on the invoice as the 6205W
| May-2011-1600, 20306 Tune, Mustang Vintage Solo Seat, Meerkat Cat Bypass, + Meerkat Modified Short TORS ,K&N Air Cleaner,K&N Oil Filter, JBQ lifting system, Gold Plug Magnetic Sump Plug,Dart Fly screen, Rivco Risers, GiPro Gear Indicator, Breakaway Cruise Control, Avon ISO Grips, Scorpion Western Low Handlebars, Kury Switchblade Pegs, Garmin Zumo390LM,Michelin RC2 on Front RC 3 on ,Modified Rear Drive Pulley Hub Bearings (Mat1600/Alex4 Modification) Front Susp: Std & 7.5W Oil /126mm Air Gap & Rear:Hagon Nitro's with 26Kg/cm Springs + Lots of other "Bling" stuff.
| | Post edited by GerPa on 27 Aug 2015 - 20:21 |
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| | | MotorMac | | Jupiter | | | | Reg. Date | : | 29/08/2010 | | Posts | : | 1,869 | | Location | : | Nor Cal, United States |
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| | Posted : 28 Aug 2015 - 12:36 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: GerPa) | | | ( still trying to identify a non OEM number for the late models )
Sorry, took that to mean the post-vin-number replacement hub with ball bearing.
So you're still running the original hub? Still have mine - which is in great shape, bearing and all - would gladly ship it to you if shipping cost was reasonable, but I suspect it would exceed the $65US replacement hub. Original hub never failed, just needed grease.
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| | | GerPa | | Jupiter | | | | Reg. Date | : | 10/12/2011 | | Posts | : | 1,919 | | Location | : | Mackay, Central Queensland, Australia |
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| | Posted : 29 Aug 2015 - 00:13 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: MotorMac) | | |
My understanding is that it was only the early models around 2009 era that failed thus necessitating to either upgrade to the later hub or do the "Matt Modification"
if it only needed grease then why did you change across to the Roller Bearing in the Cush Drive.
| May-2011-1600, 20306 Tune, Mustang Vintage Solo Seat, Meerkat Cat Bypass, + Meerkat Modified Short TORS ,K&N Air Cleaner,K&N Oil Filter, JBQ lifting system, Gold Plug Magnetic Sump Plug,Dart Fly screen, Rivco Risers, GiPro Gear Indicator, Breakaway Cruise Control, Avon ISO Grips, Scorpion Western Low Handlebars, Kury Switchblade Pegs, Garmin Zumo390LM,Michelin RC2 on Front RC 3 on ,Modified Rear Drive Pulley Hub Bearings (Mat1600/Alex4 Modification) Front Susp: Std & 7.5W Oil /126mm Air Gap & Rear:Hagon Nitro's with 26Kg/cm Springs + Lots of other "Bling" stuff.
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| | | MotorMac | | Jupiter | | | | Reg. Date | : | 29/08/2010 | | Posts | : | 1,869 | | Location | : | Nor Cal, United States |
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| | Posted : 29 Aug 2015 - 10:01 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: GerPa) | | | That is correct, I have an early Bird. There were a number of complaints about that bearing causing a squeak - as mine did - thus the Mat mod. In my case, bearing looked fine and a liberal application of grease allowed me to wear out another Metzler. By that time I'd obtained the new hub and it went on with new tire. As Mat pointed out at the time, a ball bearing seemed a better choice, and apparently Triumph agreed; new hub was provided at cost with free installation, but I opted to do it myself. Was never actually a recall per se, but was treated as such, so it seemed to be the right thing to do, plus it gave me a (common) sealed bearing.
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| | | GerPa | | Jupiter | | | | Reg. Date | : | 10/12/2011 | | Posts | : | 1,919 | | Location | : | Mackay, Central Queensland, Australia |
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| | Posted : 29 Aug 2015 - 10:58 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: MotorMac) | | | MIchael.
Correct me if I am interpreting this wrong.
You have a late model hub complete with bearings taking up space in your Shed that you would be prepared to part with. Is that correct?
| May-2011-1600, 20306 Tune, Mustang Vintage Solo Seat, Meerkat Cat Bypass, + Meerkat Modified Short TORS ,K&N Air Cleaner,K&N Oil Filter, JBQ lifting system, Gold Plug Magnetic Sump Plug,Dart Fly screen, Rivco Risers, GiPro Gear Indicator, Breakaway Cruise Control, Avon ISO Grips, Scorpion Western Low Handlebars, Kury Switchblade Pegs, Garmin Zumo390LM,Michelin RC2 on Front RC 3 on ,Modified Rear Drive Pulley Hub Bearings (Mat1600/Alex4 Modification) Front Susp: Std & 7.5W Oil /126mm Air Gap & Rear:Hagon Nitro's with 26Kg/cm Springs + Lots of other "Bling" stuff.
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| | | MotorMac | | Jupiter | | | | Reg. Date | : | 29/08/2010 | | Posts | : | 1,869 | | Location | : | Nor Cal, United States |
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| | Posted : 29 Aug 2015 - 13:23 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: GerPa) | | | It's the early model hub - original that came on the bike - that's taking up space here.
Seems like it could be bored out to take the new 205 bearing and seal, no? Wasn't that the change, larger ball bearing eliminating inner race used with needle bearing?
It's been awhile since I pulled it, and I'm no machinist.
No, strike that, ball bearing is the same on both, needle bearing is different.
Business end of the old (original) hub, complete with needle bearing, seal and inner race:
Earlier post about this thing is here: Link
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| | Post edited by MotorMac on 29 Aug 2015 - 14:59 |
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| | | davetac1 | | Thunderbird | | | Reg. Date | : | 06/09/2010 | | Posts | : | 8,379 | | Location | : | Haverhill, Ma., United States |
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| | Posted : 29 Aug 2015 - 13:47 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: MotorMac) | | | I also changed my hub a long time ago and STILL have the original hub.The difference between the two hubs is, the upgraded hub uses a slightly larger needle bearing,which naturally had a larger hole drilled in the hub to accept that needle bearing.Other then that,the two hubs are identical, using the same bearing on the opposite side and,if I remember right, the same grease seals.
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| | | MotorMac | | Jupiter | | | | Reg. Date | : | 29/08/2010 | | Posts | : | 1,869 | | Location | : | Nor Cal, United States |
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| | Posted : 29 Aug 2015 - 15:03 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: davetac1) | | | I think we should both ship those hubs to Gerry, whaddaya say Dave? He'll be in hub Heaven! ;-)
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| | | Linkdog | | Thor | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 10/02/2011 | | Posts | : | 2,973 | | Location | : | Groveland, FL., United States |
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| | Posted : 29 Aug 2015 - 16:12 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: MotorMac) | | | You could use the old hub with Matts bearing conversion and you wont need that sloppy ass needle bearing.
| Never drink from a cow with one udder! 2010 1600 Blue&White ( of course ) Long TORS and HP filter.
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| | | davetac1 | | Thunderbird | | | Reg. Date | : | 06/09/2010 | | Posts | : | 8,379 | | Location | : | Haverhill, Ma., United States |
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| | Posted : 29 Aug 2015 - 17:56 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: Linkdog) | | | I'm now pushin 90,000 miles [145,000 kilometers],swapping out the old hub for the upgraded version at the 30,000 mile mark,and have NEVER had any hub/bearing related problems.The trick is to grease that needle bearing "EVERY TIME" ya change the back tire and either bearing should last.I was gonna give my old hub to FL40, meeting him half way between where he lives and I live,but he was a no show which is the reason I still have it.
| | Post edited by davetac1 on 29 Aug 2015 - 21:10 |
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| | | GerPa | | Jupiter | | | | Reg. Date | : | 10/12/2011 | | Posts | : | 1,919 | | Location | : | Mackay, Central Queensland, Australia |
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| | Posted : 29 Aug 2015 - 19:49 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: MotorMac) | | |
MotorMac wrote:
I think we should both ship those hubs to Gerry, whaddaya say Dave? He'll be in hub Heaven! ;-) |
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 Whoa ! Fuck Ya's Whoa !
This started out changing my Mates bearings NOT mine. mine are just quite ok. and like "Our Learned Ol Pollock" says "Just poke a bit of grease in there each time Ya change a tire and She will be OK "
Maybe ship em to Matt and He could upgrade them and make a few quid 
| May-2011-1600, 20306 Tune, Mustang Vintage Solo Seat, Meerkat Cat Bypass, + Meerkat Modified Short TORS ,K&N Air Cleaner,K&N Oil Filter, JBQ lifting system, Gold Plug Magnetic Sump Plug,Dart Fly screen, Rivco Risers, GiPro Gear Indicator, Breakaway Cruise Control, Avon ISO Grips, Scorpion Western Low Handlebars, Kury Switchblade Pegs, Garmin Zumo390LM,Michelin RC2 on Front RC 3 on ,Modified Rear Drive Pulley Hub Bearings (Mat1600/Alex4 Modification) Front Susp: Std & 7.5W Oil /126mm Air Gap & Rear:Hagon Nitro's with 26Kg/cm Springs + Lots of other "Bling" stuff.
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| | | Leethal | | Zeus | |  | | Reg. Date | : | 24/01/2011 | | Posts | : | 6,529 | | Location | : | Australia |
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| | Posted : 30 Aug 2015 - 00:46 Post title : Re: Change Rear Wheel Bearings UPDATE (Re: GerPa) | | | From what I learned at our afternoon session in York, Mat is busy enough without f##king around with old hubs.
( I dared to bring up the alloy throttle and got "that" look)
| Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Nitron R3 shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
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