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Technical Talk -> How to ... step by step.Quick question... - Instant roadside fork seal fix
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Topic : Service your pulley bearing.
 Author 
Post  
 fab 
Thor
Reg. Date : 12/10/2009
Posts : 2,515
Location : wyong, nsw, Australia
Posted : 13 Sep 2012 - 21:41   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: DizzE)
 

DizzE wrote:

Well, I think this was one of the problems... I used a grind stone in the drill press and thinned it...significantly.



how was the outside of the bearing shell? did it looked like the bearing had been extra hot any bluing?

 

Remember, soft cocks hang around all life long, hard ones come and go

ahh f**k im deep
 Author 
Post  
 DizzE 
Thor
Reg. Date : 12/07/2010
Posts : 3,141
Location : Sunnyvale, CA, United States
Posted : 13 Sep 2012 - 21:59   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: fab)
 

Didn't come out in the photo, but it was almost completely blued. Pretty dark in some places. And it was kinda gall
welded to about a 2 mm wide strip, 3/4 way around race. All back together now.

 Author 
Post  
 fab 
Thor
Reg. Date : 12/10/2009
Posts : 2,515
Location : wyong, nsw, Australia
Posted : 13 Sep 2012 - 22:06   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: DizzE)
 
That sounds just like mine was, and bike is definitely smoother and quieter with the new one
when i used to have the bike on the rear pit stand you could fill the friction from something,all gone now with new bearings

 

Remember, soft cocks hang around all life long, hard ones come and go

ahh f**k im deep
 Author 
Post  
 DizzE 
Thor
Reg. Date : 12/07/2010
Posts : 3,141
Location : Sunnyvale, CA, United States
Posted : 14 Sep 2012 - 14:54   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: fab)
 
Looking forward to that!

 Author 
Post  
 DizzE 
Thor
Reg. Date : 12/07/2010
Posts : 3,141
Location : Sunnyvale, CA, United States
Posted : 22 Sep 2012 - 18:47   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: DizzE)
 
Finally got it sorted. Everything seems fine. The ABS was wires. I don't know why I thought there was fiber optic.
Probably something I heard. IAC, it seems like it might an ultra sound transducer. Solder back. No faults.

I read all about the wheel adjustment tool, got one and it seems useless. I saw folks looking at the measurements
using the tool. I could never make any sense of it, the measurements were so far off.

So, my technique, for what it's worth.

- On the Right, got the belt tension to what I wanted (real loose)

I can't quite touch the plastic belt guard. It might need to be tighter.





Then I hand set the belt, just pushing it slightly inboard at the bottom and rotated the wheel forward.

I just hand adjusted the Left side, until the belt stayed put, by hand rotation. I can fine tune it more toward the center.
But, it's stable in rotation and not on either edge.



And here is why I started with belt and not the measurements. Look a the difference. This is the stable setting for the belt,
on the stand, in 2ond gear. Need some road testing now. So far so good.











Post edited by DizzE on 22 Sep 2012 - 18:48
 Author 
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 davetac1 
Thunderbird
Reg. Date : 06/09/2010
Posts : 8,379
Location : Haverhill, Ma., United States
Posted : 23 Sep 2012 - 02:45   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: DizzE)
 
DizzE: Set your belt tension or free play at the belts tightest point as measured in the little slot in the lower belt guard.You want it loose,but not that loose.Mine is set between 1/2 and 3/4 of an inch at its' tightest point.Rememeber,as the belts gets hotter,it WILL CONTRACT,meaning that free play or tension will decrease,plus the belt will move left to right and back as load changes,but if it's too tight OR the cogs are dirty,it will stay on one side and chirp like hell.My belt runs more to the left and moves side to side dpending on load and turns.When ya get it right,you'll notice the sides of the belt are grey in color verses black from making too much contact with the edges of that rear cog. Dave!!!

 Author 
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 mat1600 
Thunderbird
Reg. Date : 06/03/2010
Posts : 8,596
Location : Bridlington, Democratic Independant State of Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Posted : 23 Sep 2012 - 07:50   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: DizzE)
 
Your setting looks to be a long way out. I used to set mine while on the lift but it was never right. I now use the Triumph tool and give the right side an extra bit of a turn ACW.

 
My first natural instinct is to breathe. My second is to evade tax's.


 Author 
Post  
 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,593
Location :  Australia
Posted : 23 Sep 2012 - 10:01   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: mat1600)
 
Agree Mat, I did mine on the side stand yesterday and found it much quicker and nothing moved on the torque up.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Nitron R3 shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
Post  
 DizzE 
Thor
Reg. Date : 12/07/2010
Posts : 3,141
Location : Sunnyvale, CA, United States
Posted : 23 Sep 2012 - 14:28   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: Leethal)
 
I want to try ultra loose, a la Stephan's advice (bigbikelupo)

But, just got it backed out into the driveway and the clutch lifter gear rolled off the end of the rack. No clutch IN.
Damn.

I will pull the side cover, reset the lifter and make sure I have rolled on enough tension. Still need the road tests on the belt.
We'll see.


And Mat, early days, I may have pranged my swing arm when it roll onto the floor.

Post edited by DizzE on 23 Sep 2012 - 14:30
 Author 
Post  
 mat1600 
Thunderbird
Reg. Date : 06/03/2010
Posts : 8,596
Location : Bridlington, Democratic Independant State of Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Posted : 23 Sep 2012 - 15:27   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: DizzE)
 

DizzE wrote:


And Mat, early days, I may have pranged my swing arm when it roll onto the floor.


Ouch !!!. Thats going to hurt the pocket at $1050.00. Probs will be ok - its a good solid fabrication.



 
My first natural instinct is to breathe. My second is to evade tax's.


 Author 
Post  
 DizzE 
Thor
Reg. Date : 12/07/2010
Posts : 3,141
Location : Sunnyvale, CA, United States
Posted : 23 Sep 2012 - 15:47   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: mat1600)
 
Well, with eyeball and some rough center measurements, probably not pranged. I hope.

 Author 
Post  
 tadpole 
Set
Reg. Date : 18/05/2009
Posts : 307
Location : Mandurah, West Australia, Australia
Posted : 28 Oct 2012 - 00:25   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: DizzE)
 
Hi Guys, Didn,t get to do the bearing mods before i left, just lubed up the needle bearing and headed off...
Shorter trip than i planned 9300 kms in 3 weeks, bike ran flawlessly, caught up with the guys at Triumph HQ in Melbourne who checked the bird out and gave it a clean bill of health...Now has 28,000kms up total and 15,000 on the bigbore kit...Averaged 17.5 kms per litre the whole trip and wore out the band new rear i left with...Oh well back to normality again,,,,cheers, Tadpole

 Author 
Post  
 DizzE 
Thor
Reg. Date : 12/07/2010
Posts : 3,141
Location : Sunnyvale, CA, United States
Posted : 15 Nov 2012 - 15:25   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: DizzE)
 
DizzE wrote:

Well, with eyeball and some rough center measurements, probably not pranged. I hope.



Well, now with another 2000 mi, I would be thrilled with these Adjusters. Except one problem.

I never think about it! After all that, it was the bearing that was making the noise.
It does, somehow, seem smoother, also. And I'm not grinding the outside edge of the belt.

However, I give the needle bearing removal task, 3 out of 5 in difficulty. Meaning
if you don't know, have low confidence, no equipment for grinding it out, etc, don't think this
is DIY doable. But, it is easy enough to take it apart, remove the pulley, etc.

Then take the axle hub to a machine shop to have the needle bearing removed. It is easy after
that.

2 out of 5 for that route. (need the torque wrench)

Oh, I did try it, super-loose. More loose than bblupo would suggest. Don't know how to say it
but it just seemed weird. Subtleties of the power transfer, I imagine. Now I run loose.
But, my definition is the collapse the gap between the belt top/bottom, 1/2 way.

Before it was all the way to touch the other side of the belt.




Post edited by DizzE on 15 Nov 2012 - 15:35
 Author 
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 GerPa 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 10/12/2011
Posts : 1,919
Location : Mackay, Central Queensland, Australia
Posted : 10 Nov 2013 - 12:06   Post title : Re: Service your pulley bearing. (Re: mat1600)
 
mat1600 wrote: "I found it annoying having to remove the 'inner' bearing to remove the needle roller sleeve in order to pack with grease."

After reading what was in the Service Manual I was a little confused so I had a PM discussion with Matt and I did it a little differently.

Matt with a bit of editorial cutting and shutting of other posts and the original post I have depicted what I did to remove the inner roller bearing to get access to the inner needle roller bearing for inspecting cleaning and repacking as I found it virtually impossible to get a needle punch past the needle roller inner race and onto the roller bearing inner race and I did not have a bearing remover.

This is the 'inner' bearing spacer. Notice signs of rusting.+ you can see the inner race of the outer needle roller bearing against the roller bearing inner race.First remove this circlip.

This picture depicts the Needle Roller Bearing and Inner race which actually sits up against the Roller Bearing inner race.

This photo shows the inner race of the needle roller protruding level with the drive pully outer seal + the Stepped Socket and Extension to be used as a drift to remove the inner roller bearing via the inner needle roller race.This is so you dont damage the inner needle roller bearing race.

Depicting the Stepped Scoket & Extension to be used as a drift tool.

The 'inner'sealed bearing removed which allows the removal of the needle roller inner bearing race so that you can clean and inspect the bearing.




Hopefully this might make it a bit clearer and simpler for someone attempting this task.+ My bearing was Ok and My bike was built in May 2011 so it has the later model needle roller bearing.

 
May-2011-1600, 20306 Tune, Mustang Vintage Solo Seat, Meerkat Cat Bypass, + Meerkat Modified Short TORS ,K&N Air Cleaner,K&N Oil Filter, JBQ lifting system, Gold Plug Magnetic Sump Plug,Dart Fly screen, Rivco Risers, GiPro Gear Indicator, Breakaway Cruise Control, Avon ISO Grips, Scorpion Western Low Handlebars, Kury Switchblade Pegs, Garmin Zumo390LM,Michelin RC2 on Front RC 3 on ,Modified Rear Drive Pulley Hub Bearings (Mat1600/Alex4 Modification) Front Susp: Std & 7.5W Oil /126mm Air Gap & Rear:Hagon Nitro's with 26Kg/cm Springs + Lots of other "Bling" stuff.

Post edited by GerPa on 10 Nov 2013 - 21:44
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